Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Had another good dinner from Reggie last night. And we made it very clear that we weren't leaving because of their establishment. Quite the opposite, Country Lodge is very comfortable. Erika told us to go to their other property, Bourganvilla, which is next store - but we never made it. We were very happy where we were. After dinner we were able to upload some of the pictures and the blog post from their computer. They were very nice not to charge us since we were leaving a day earlier than planned. However, not wanting to take advantage of the situation, we only posted as much as we could without taking up too much time and bandwidth.
Packed up and had breakfast and met Kiki at 7:30. We are now sitting at the reception area for Ngorongoro National Park, where we had to register for yesterday's tour. Really glad we got here early yesterday. It is not around 8am and this place is a circus. Never seen so many land cruisers. So, while we wait for Kiki to get back, I thought I would take this time and just write a few more stories about yesterday.
International Ladies Room Humor: As I was coming out of the ladies room (we are still in the crater), a British woman asked "One hole?" "Three" I said,"plus toilet paper" British woman: "Oh, lovely!" Don't know why but I got a real giggle out of that - probably the accent.
Looking forward to getting on the road. We have Jerry B. with us this morning and I explained it all to Kiki. He knows a special spot in the Serengeti that would be a good place for our little ceremony. For those who do not know about Jerry B., he is a very good friend who passed away a few years ago and now we are spreading his ashes wherever we go. He always wanted to travel and now he finally is seeing the world.
Finally got all our papers in order and we were off on the bumpy road to the Serengeti. Along the way, we stopped at a Masai Village and took a tour of the Masai houses and how they live. We learned that they wear the red cloth when taking long walks, because the animals do not like red. They can have as many wives as they want as long as they have enough cows to buy them. The first marriage is arrangeed and thereafter it is 10 cows per wife. The women build their own houses and take care of the children, while the men hang out with their cows. Just before we were leaving, one Masai asked if we had a $20 bill for a wad of small bills - they have no pockets to carry money. Geoff did the exchange - one of the $2 bills had Happy Valentine's Day 1999 written all over it. What are the chances that we should receive that bill on Valentine's Day from a Masai no less!
In route we came across some sheep and a couple of camels. Although not wild, it was a bit bizarre to see a camel - I think it is an omen for the Israel trip. We ate lunch under a beautiful tree where a Masai family was resting. We shared out food with them. All was very peaceful until 3 more jeeps showed up and practically ran over the Masai. Then Kiki was having problems with the jeep. The terminals to the battery have been coming loose for the last couple of days. Well they finally said "Uncle". One of the other guides got his wrench out and helped him tighten them up. We were back on the road and made it to the ranger station. More paper work and this time a flat tire! Oy! It was not after 3pm and we were just starting our game drive. We did get lucky and spotted some lions, cheetahs, and the best of all was a leopard on a tree branch. Payback for the flat tire. Spotted more giraffes trying to find the tent site. It took a while but we managed to drive in at around 7pm. We were all bushed and very dusty. Told Kiki we would see him at dinner and talk about tomorrow.
Next time... Under African Skies
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
And that is where we sat after dinner -- under African skies. The stars were absolutely magnificent last night. When we had our fill of star gazing we crawled into bed and fell asleep listening to the lions roar. What a place! We met Kiki for breakfast and headed out around 8:30 for Seronera- the middle of Serengi- to see the migration. On the way, there was a pride of lions that was full from a fresh zebra kill. Probably the ones we heard at around 5am. Hung out with them for a bit and then headed for the migration. At the registration point, we ran into our photog friends from the Mount Meru Game Lodge and said hi. On the road, we ran into some elephants, tons of gazelles, and many more animals. Unfortunately, when we stopped for an elephant crossing, the jeep refused to start again. Had to get pushed to get it going again. Could not turn it off again for fear of it not starting.
We hit the migration and wow what a sight. We were amidst wildebeest, zebras, and elephants. Not to mention, right in the middle of all this sat Serengeti's Pride - a lion pride of about 16. An unbelieveable experience. The herds went on for miles. No way can my camera capture all of it. Breathtakingly awesome. Stopped for lunch at the tourist area and ate with the wife of a very famous wildlife photographer, who I will google when I get some internet. During lunch Kiki tried to get the jeep fixed but no luck. Well at least it still runs as long as we don't turn it off. After lunch we saw more lions and a pair of cheetahs taking a nap.
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| Serengeti's Pride |
Headed back to camp around 5:45 down gazelle highway. These guys are crazy. There a hundreds of them along the side of the road and they run back and forth in front of the jeep for fun. There are also ostrich and every once in a while a giraffe. These roads are so bumpy, Kiki calls it African massage. Got back for a quick beer with Kiki and a shower. Sat around the campfire till dinner. More people tonight. Turns out Kazan Lodge is a Norweigan based company-which explains all the Scandinavian folks, both Swedes and Norwegians, we met at dinner. We are having a good time with them. There is also a young couple from Australia which we haven't met yet. We have one more night here and we are going to be sorry to leave.
Next time...Sunrise on the Serengeti
Thursday, February 16, 2012
Awoke before dawn, collected out breakfast boxes and met Kiki. Kiki drove us up to this ridge that overlooks the lake to see the sunrise. Didn't see the actual sun rising but we saw the sky turning magnificent colors. Figured, this was as good a time as any for the Jerry B. memorial spot. Dusted his ashed over the Serengeti at sunrise. I think he would be very happy about that. The first spottin was a cheetah in the high grass looking for prey. Our next find was a group of lions - 4 females, 2 baby cubs, and 4 juveniles. We stayed and watched for a while. Then while crossing the dry river bed, were 4 cheetahs. We followed them for a bit till it was time for breakfast. Drove for a bit because we had to park on a hill so we could start the jeep again. That done, we ate and rested. After breakfast, we went around Lake Ndutu - this is flamingo central. Also mixed in were cape teals and various other birds. Lake Masek (a salt lake) was up next. A wildebeest graveyard. When the wildebeests cross the lake they can get stuck in the mud and die. The carcass can get dragged up by hyenas - the bones can get washed ashore when the rains come. It was now coming on 11am and we headed back to camp. Resting now at our tent. Lunch at 1pm and our last game drive around 4ish. Till later...
We are resting comfortably in our tent after lunch listening to thunder in the background-not sure if the rain will make it here or not. G thinks it is going to miss us - we'll see. Talked with the Aussies a bit during the meal. Very nice young couple. While I have some time before before our game drive, I'll write about this luxury tenting experience. First of all, we happen to have the best tent in the place - even though it is number 13! It is situated at the end of the line, so nobody walks back and forth. It is nice and private. It is also huge compared to some of the other tents, which I think maybe older. The sink has running water, but every morning - at the time you request - they bring hot water and pour it in the canvas bags outside for washing and shaving. They will also bring you a thermos of hot water to make coffee/tea in your tent before either going out or going to breakfast. There is a very nice flushing toilet with a beautiful view. And when you want a shower, the guys boil water, climb a ladder and fill the tank. They keep the water coming as long as you want. Mealtime is camping style and we all sit together. The guides also eat with us and that was a lot of fun. You get to hear everyone else's stories. It is so peaceful to just sit and listen to all the animals. All in all, it is a much richer experience than being at a resort. We are extremely happy we chose this accommodation and even happier that we got our extra night. I recommend it highly.
Back in the tent and pack. The lions are roaring something fierce. They sound way too close this evening. I sure hope they found dinner. We go back to Country Lodge through the Ngorongoro National Park. Maybe we will some more wildlife. But as it is, we are very happy with our safari, accommodations, and our fantastic guide.
Next time.. Back to Karatu
Friday, February 17, 2012
A leisure breakfast this morning. Had a great talk with Daniel and Alyson, the Aussies living in London. Finally got on the bumpy road back to Karatu by around 9ish. Stopped at Ngorongoro Crater gate for a break and photo op. Met up with another Serengeti Pride jeep. Talked with the guys, Mark and Darren, who are on their way to climb Kiliminjaro. Took some photos and we were off to Country Lodge. Arrived about 12:30. Reggie was at the desk and we talked about dinner. I asked if we could eat next door to their other lodge, Bougainvillea, a bit more up scale than this one. The guys we met this afternoon were there so we asked if we could join them. It turned out to be a good thing because this lodge has been invaded by about 50 teenagers on holiday. We were able to get a swim and a rest in by the pool before the invasion but it got to be too much after a while. We met Kiki for a drink before dinner at the Bougainvillea lodge next door and set up a time to leave to for Arusha airport tomorrow. We have a 2pm flight to Zanzibar. Also shared some of the pictures from the safari and also of home. It would be nice if Kiki could come to the States one of these days, but getting visas is very tough.
Said goodnight to Kiki and met up with Mark and Darren for dinner. They are from Vancouver. Mark has planned this trip so that he summits the mountain on his 40th birthday. Darren is his support team. They make quite a pair. Mark has invested in every kind of equipment - boots, layers of clothing, all sorts of hiking stuff. We asked Darren what he's got "I'm going up in Berkinstocks and shorts." The one thing Mark doesn't have is an extra battery for his camera. He'll be standing at the summit taking pictures with his cell phone. They will be hiking up with one other woman who is traveling alone. Hopefully, she thought of an extra battery. We had a great time talking with them and maybe one day we wil all meet again. Dinner was excellent. Reggie made the fish dinner he promised us when we left a few days ago. The boys ordered some traditional African food so between the two it was all delicious. We finally said goodnight around 10pm - wished them luck going to the summit. I hope they let us know how they did.
Back in the room and the kids are still at it around the pool. Hope somebody shuts them down soon, its almost 11pm. Good thing we don't have to get up too early. I do give them credit for one thing. I left or dropped by Kindle by the chaise this afternoon and didn't discover it was missing until we got back from dinner. Geoff went out and found it lying one of the chaises - not the one I was on. So nobody took scarfed it up. I am very thankful for that. I have grown very found of my Kindle and would definitely be bummed if it got stolen or lost.
I hope to have wifi in Zanzibar. I have an awful lot to upload. Sweet dreams all
Next time.. The Road to Zanzibar
Saturday, February 18, 2012
Taking it very easy this morning - don't have to leave till 10am, which is a real luxury for us so far. The kids finally quited down at the stroke of 11. The chaperone must have plugged the plug because all was silent. Had a great sleep and we are raring to go.
Safari Tips
Before we move on to our next adventure thought this would be a good time to share some of our safari tips if you are ever planning on going.
- Be prepared for dust, and I mean DUST
- Roads can be bumpy, and I mean BUMPY
- Invest in a case of 1 1/2 liter water - you will need every drop
- Instead of paying extra fora box lunch at the lodges, go to the supermarket and pick pbj. Saves money and is fine safari lunch fare.
- Early morning and late afternoon game drives are best - animals more active
- Have patience. You may wait a very long time watching an animal sleep, stretetch, dream, and roll over. But when they decide to get up, that is when the show begins and it makes the dust, bumpy roads, and waiting all worthwhile, because absolutely anything can happen.
- Have a good zoom camera. We are not photo professionals and did not want to lug around heavy equipment, so we invested in a good point and shoot with a pretty decent zoom. The Panasonic Lumix 16x zoom has worked well for us. The reaction time is fantastic - you see the shot immediately, there lots of controls and custom settings at you fingertips - no touching through electronic menus on a screen you can't see (especially at our age). The screen is pretty decent and has a very bright setting. There is a more expensive model that is the same camera only with GPS and Facebook features. Both of which we feel are a waste of time and only use up the battery - which we have to say has been great - although we did bring a back up battery. Also bring either an extra sd card or a thumb drive just in case you fill up. You take an incredible amount of shots just to get the "one". As far as i was concerned getting a picture was great, but the experience of just being there was greater.
- A good set of binoculars. We had two pairs. A small Pentax 10x24 and a larger pair Nikon 10x42 - a bit more bulkier but worth it.
- Make sure you have the right adapters and an extension cord helps
- Clothesline - you are forever washing the dust out of stuff - but things dry in an instant around here
- As for clothes: Convertible pants are the best. The mornings are cool when you start out and then when the sun gets high you can zip down to shorts. Wash and wear t's. I did not need the jacket, rain gear, or sweater but found that the light sweatshirt with a hood worked great for early morning and late evening - and for the occassional drizzle (which we were fortunate not to have too much of, the hood was fine) again if you do get wet you dry up in seconds. This is not to say do not take rain gear - you never know. I was very happy with my Keen sandals, even if my foot wasn't. They are protective and easy to clean - no socks to keep washing out. Actually, my foot only acted up a couple of times and I just sucked it up as usual. We didn't walk alot but you could be standing in the jeep for hours.
- The Jeep: you never know which kind of jeep you will get. Some have pop up covers, some have a canopy for shade, and some, like ours, just opens up and the sun comes blasting in. Better views when you stand, but it is hot. Plus be prepared for flat tires, dead batteries, etc. They take a beating.
- SUNBLOCK and if you are prone to sunburn bring a lightweight long sleeve shirt
- Insect Repllent - didnt' need it so far. Didn't see one mosquito - Don't know about Zanzibar
- Malaria Pills
- Visas - $100/pp when you enter the country.
- I advise the luxury tent camping whenever possible. But that's just us. Can't say enough good things about that experience.
- Money: exchange a couple of hundred when you land at the airport. Bring US dollars minted after 2001 and in mostly small denominations. You need small bills for tipping baggage handlers. Tips for the lodge staff are left in a communal box at the end of you stay. We are not shoppers and have not spent too much on more stuff to lug around, but you need lots of tip money and $$ for the occasional beer or two or three...
- And last but not least, you for the ladies, be prepared to "check the tires" and squat. Driving the bumpy roads to Serengeti, we were in the middle of nowhere and we had be driving for hours. I had one too many cups of coffee and expressed this to Kiki. "OK, I'll pull over and you can check the tires" Great - just have to hope a dust cloud doesn't get you when your pants are down. So, therefore, as with any excursion, ladies, carry lots of tissues.
Got to go to breakfast and hit the road - it just got later than I thought. So late that the whole lodge had cleared out by the time we got to the restaurant. We were greeted with a quite table for two outside on the patio. The buffet was closed up, so we got treated to table service. We ate and relaxed while enjoying the great view. Reggie stopped by and we talked for a while. Took his picture and told him he was going into the travel blog. Not sure he knew what that was. Told us to say hi to Erika. He also gave us some pointers of where to go in Zanzibar. Kiki came to get us at exactly 10am and the guys came out to give the jeep one last push. Got to the Arusha Airport in plenty of time. It is quite small and it seemed pretty efficient. In fact, we left 45 minutes early. Hope our pick up guy will be there when we land. We are now flying highover Tanzania in a 12 person small plane on our way Zanzibar.
One more thing to say before the next phase of our journey begins. We would like to thank Erika for making this happen. A special thanks to Kiki for being a fabulous guide. Our appreciation for Bertha in the office, who, we know works very hard. A thank you to Marc and staff at Mount Meru Game Lodge, Reggie and his group at County Lodge, the whole crew at Kensan Luxury Tents. Management and staff alike have all been great. All the people we met along the way, both local and tourists, were extremely friendly and interesting. We thank the weather gods for bright blue skies during the day and beautiful starfilled skies at night. A nice change of pace from our most recent trips of rain and cool temps. It is very special to have great accommodations for a whole stay. Serentegit Pride Safaris has a alot to be proud of. I hope our luck holds out for the rest of our trip.
Arrived at the airport around 12:30. Said our goodbyes to Kiki with big hugs and kisses. Promised to email and keep in touch. Check in went very smooth and I am now writing from a small 12 person plane on the way to Zanzibar. Who would have ever thought?!! The scenery is beautiful and we are very excited about seeing the ocean again after being in the bush for so long. Happy landings.
Hakuna Matata!
Next time .. Exploring Stone Town
Wow! Great photos. You saw so many big cats...you are lucky to have seen lions, cheetah, and leopard all in the same trip. That doesn't always happen! Thanks for keeping your sense of humor and sorry our vehicle wigged out in Serengeti, that stinks but as you said - these vehicles take a beating on those roads. Have fun on the next segment! My family and I are finalizing details for our safari and Zanzibar for next month so I'm excited to see your postings.
ReplyDeleteI hope you will bring home the human aspect of this trip. It's like nothing else I've ever seen.
ReplyDeleteLove To You Both Stay Safe